![]() There are some dings and a small crack in the top I would like to fill prior to staining. Hi, my husband built a maple cabinet with maple veneer plywood and maple doors. Oh and keep in mind you might just be able to use a water-based dye to the same end. This kind of work can be a little tricky, so feel free to email me if you have other questions. And if thats not strong enough, start using a little pigment in the mix. And keep in mind you can add many coats to arrive at the color you desire. I find that little bit of lacquer helps lock down the color. Add however much it takes to get the color you want. 90% lacquer thinner, 10% lacquer, plus your color. So many times I will start off with a dye and see where it takes me. But they will obscure the grain more than a dye. Pigments, like UTC pigments (from the paint store) are great and will change the color in a hurry. One thing I used to do quite a bit was make my own ‘toner”, using diluted lacquer and either pigment or dye, and sometimes both. We don’t want people to notice that there are two different woods in use. Normally that last part is something we want to avoid, but in your case, its a necessary step. Something that dries quickly, doesn’t absorb too deep, and potentially obscures the grain a bit. You can do this, but I highly recommend going with an alcohol or lacquer-based stain. Each wood and each tree has its own behavior, so Darin might need to use a blend of two stains to achieve the final “custom” color he wants. ![]() As a final note, commercial stains are often shown with photos of how the stain looks on pine and other woods. His test boards would determine which combination is best for his case. In Darin’s case, from the “orange” tone he describes, maybe a slight amount of blue-green, green, or yellow-green tint in the shellac sanding sealer would produce the brown color he wants in the finished (pun intended) product. If one has more scraps and time to experiment, it may be that some dye could be added to the thinned shellac that would enrich the final look when the stain is applied. Sometimes, I ‘ve been in a hurry and did not mix the stain and later found that some of the colorant had settled to the bottom of the container, giving me a much different result than I expected. Also, the stain needs to be thoroughly mixed before application, in order to get the colorants uniformly distributed in the stain. That is, it may take a “primer” coat of stain to serve as a base for the final”color” coat. Depending on what stain I am using, I may need to use a second or even a third application of stain to get the final look. I try to use the least amount of shellac that will give me the “anti-splotch” result when I apply stain. I use a much-thinned cut, about 1/2 lb or less, and use scraps to determine if the particular boards need an additional coat of sealer (usually Sounds like maybe he used too heavy a cut of shellac in his sanding sealer. I agree with the sage advice that you gave Darin. This is exactly what Darin was trying to do. By pre-sealing the wood with shellac, you can even out the color absorption. It tend to absorb stain unevenly which leads to a blotchy look. ”įor those of you who don’t know, maple is a tricky wood to stain. Let me know if you need more info on that method. Also, if you have a spray setup, you could always use a dye mixture to get a nice even brown color. ![]() Rockler has a great selection of gel stains that I use frequently. The gel stain will sit on the surface more and will allow you to more effectively change the color without depending on stain absorption. Now if that stain still isnt dark enough, then you might want to move to a darker gel stain. I would probably recommend a 1/2lb cut to a 1 lb cut. ![]() Do a few tests on scrap to find what works for you. Also, be sure to use a blonde shellac since that emparts little to no color at all. What cut of shellac are you using? You just might be sealing the surface a bit too much, so you aren’t getting the color change you should be. Is there a method that you use to obtain a brown tone finish instead of the orange one I am getting. maple gel stain I get an orange tone wood instead of the brown I would like. I am using a dewaxed shelac as a sanding sealer and this imparts a slightly amber tone to the wood and when I apply the col. I am trying to finish maple to a brown appearance.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |